Hotel Rincon de Fuego The hotel is barely discernible from the homes
around it, or what appears to be a small school house next to it. Even
the wooden sign with the name engraved into it is barely distinguishable
in the blowing dust. Inside, the young receptionist appears perplexed
that we wanted a room and immediately called someone to determine the
rate. Soon it became clear that the little eating area and kitchen, and
the few bottles of wine that lined the wall would not be enjoyed by any
other guests than us, perhaps because it is overpriced ($100 usd a
night) and/or because it is a quarter kilometer uphill from the main
square. The building is dark and quaint, built from local material in a
traditional adobe style – earth toned tiles and granite floor, thatched
ceiling with lines of local variant of bamboo, and mud walls tastefully
painted in shades of brownish white. The entire structure is naturally
cool and comfortable. The small courtyard surrounded by a low unfired
brick wall has a spectacular view to the eastern hills. The trees create
pools of shade and a giant cactus proudly dominates the assortment of
cosmos, geraniums, and marigold. The outdoor brick barbecue and the
neatly piled logs are customary for a country where parrilla – barbecued
meats – is by far the most favored, almost romantized, food. There are
several flaws – a finicky toilet, an inadequate breakfast, and unhelpful
staff but the greatest flaw maybe the rooster next door whose throaty
call at precisely 4:44 am had made me wish that it would find its way to
La Carmela’s table or a celebratory parrilla.